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I just posted a new tutorial on Grooving the Outsole In early modern and modern welted shoes, the sewing that keeps the outsole attached to the welt is sunk into a groove on the underside of the outsole. This tutorial will hopefully help to illustrate the process I use to determine with the groove ought to lie. | |
Thanks for the clear description. I found that a curved, broader awl is also very handy for this job, as it also allows removing some material from the groove, creating extra space where the thread then can rest. Don’t know how to describe the point of the awl best but you can see it at http://sutor.jimdo.com/shoes/renaissance-shoes/mary-rose-cowmouth-2/, towards the bottom.
Makes sense! I can certainly see that working well and forming more space for the thread to sink into. I’ve been using some fairly thick saddle skirting for the outsole on many welted shoes, and since I cut a fairly deep stitching groove, the stitching is pretty much hidden when I press the outsole groove closed. Thanks for the comment – your work is quite nice, and I appreciate that you took the time to put a binding strip on the shoe opening. A vast majority of shoes from the Medieval era to the Renaissance have some kind of opening treatment, and although it takes more time, it really does look nice!