Posts Tagged ‘16th C’

1520s-1540s Cowmouth Shoes

Sunday, September 21st, 2014

You might have been aware of Lesson 10, a pair of Cowmouth shoes done a while back. This pair was done a bit differently, although it also used bound edges and a bound strip as well. There were a few differences in this pair, though, the primary one being the technique used to sew the knops in the fronts of the shoe. The second – this pair is for me!

Extant pieces in the early Tudor time often had knops on the fronts of shoes. These knops were done a number of ways. One method, if the knops were not too sharp and pointy, were to cut an insole and treadsole to match, and then shoe sewn all the way around the shoe, just as was done in Lesson 10. However, not all were done in this manner.
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1590s Buff Heels

Wednesday, August 20th, 2014

A pair of heels, but shorter (only about 1″ heel), but this pair was done in buff leather. I learned a great deal on this pair, and that buff (or undyed) leather can be an incredible pain to work with. The main reason is that because it’s not dyed, any mark or scuff can mar the surface, and keeping the shoe clean can be a real challenge. For this pair, I ended up tallowing both sides of the leather prior to closing and lasting, but I think that the next time, I’ll probably try just try tallowing the grain of the leather rather than the flesh. It made the shoe a bit more tricky to form, and the heel stiffener was giving me a fit. That is both the advantage and disadvantage of tallow – it makes the leather more supple and pliable, yet also more water resistant. When making shoes, you need the advantage of the water to help form it around the last/heel block.

Another thing I tried on this was to use thicker treadsole thread, smaller stitches, and putting in double half-casts while I sew the treadsole. This had the very pleasing effect of creating little “rice” stitches, in that each stitch sticks up like a slightly angled grain of rice. When done correctly, each stitch also has a slight angle to it, giving a pleasing effect of symmetry along the shoe. I plan to do this for all of my shoes going forward.

1570s-90s Flat Strap Shoes

Saturday, July 26th, 2014

This was actually a pair I had made a while back, but completely forgot about! Standard construction with straps and decoration, but this pair was actually made flat. I may end up adding a heel lift if the lucky person to get them wishes so.

1570s Red Shoes

Monday, July 7th, 2014

Another fun pair, and my apologies for the poor picture quality. These were a bit of an experiment, though you can’t really tell from the fuzzy pic. In this case, I overlapped the vamp on top of the quarters and stitched through the quarters with a tunnel stitch so that the stitching does not show. You can still see a bit of tugging, but I like the look of the overlapped quarters. Additionally, I cut the insole about 1/8″ smaller than the last all the way around in an attempt to draw the welt underneath the shoe a bit more. It worked to a certain extent, but I think I’ll need to go at least to 1/4″ before I see some real undercutting of the welt.