Tag Archives: 16th C

The only one of its kind – as far as I know!

I’ve been asked a number of times how difficult it was to walk / fight / dance in the small little cowmouths, similar to those here: http://aands.org/raisedheels/Lesson10/cowmouths.php. The reason is clear – the vast majority of documentation shows people wearing shoes, even in the early 16th century where a variety of illustrations in the form of fighting manuals, woodcuts, and paintings show many soldiers wearing shoes.

But, there is a second reason – folks in our day and age associate boots with “olden times,” and their visual is all the more enhanced when you get excellent works like “Wolf Hall” which do so many things right from a costume perspective, but all of the gents are wearing boots. In reality, shoes were far more common, and the vast majority of folks wearing boots are traveling, either on horseback or in some other manner, at least until the 17th century where they become more common, based on the archeological and pictorial record.

Combine the two questions – is there such a thing as a cowmouth boot? I have seen a number of modern works which attempt to combine the look of the cowmouth with a boot, but it was not until about ten years ago that I found an example of such a boot in the pictorial record. I would underscore that since then, I have seen exactly 0 additional examples. This makes this a singularity, and exceedingly rare. If you’re aware of any other evidence, please do share! I’d be very curious to know more.

The evidence is a painting by Jacob Cornelisz van Oostsanen, dated between 1485 and 1533, of allegory of David and Abigail. As a reminder, Abigail was the wife of Nabal; she became a wife of the future King David after Nabal’s death (1 Samuel 25). Abigail was David’s second wife, after Saul’s daughter, Michal, whom Saul later married to Palti, son of Laish when David went into hiding, and Ahinoam (thanks Wikipedia!).

So, considering the allegorical story, and the extremely scant evidence, I find it unlikely that such a boot was common at all. Would love to know of more examples, though!

1570s Silk Faille Pumpes

Finally, my first real pair of fabric covered leather shoes. Although there is a great deal of both pictorial and extant evidence for fabric-covered shoes, I have never had the chance to examine such a pair up close. The most time-intensive part of this was certainly the embroidery, which the shoemaker would normally have handed off to someone else prior to making up the shoes.

Let us do a bit of digging into the historical evidence for this type of shoe.
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1600s Stacked Leather Heel

A really snappy pair of 1600s heels with a stacked leather sole. We’ve incorporated a thistle design into the upper, and the the edges have been bound with white, which makes a stunning statement when peeking out from under a dress or while dancing. The leather stacked heel was well in vogue towards the end of the 16th century, as was the leather-covered timber heel.

These shoes are randed, meaning that the welt was pulled down on top of the insole and held in place with stitching cords.
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1570s Strapped Shoes, Black on Black

I was delighted to get this commission to make a pair of strapped black-on-black shoes with a heel lift and stiffener. Black on black makes for such a clean finish to the opening, subdued, but certainly noticeable. I strongly recommend binding for all, not just because it helps reinforce the opening, but because of the way it finishes the shoe.

Some details below…
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